Te Araroa # 3- Rees Valley to Dart Glacier- The Motatapu Track

From the tourist laden town of Glenorchy we took a shuttle bus to the trailhead of the Rees track. This is a popular hike with locals as it allows an accessible walk up to view a glacier. Following the lovely, meandering Rees river valley hikers make their way up to Shelter Rock Hut.

The grasslands are deceiving as most often they are marshy and mud boggy!

New Zealand hiking has opened up a new game for me called “Dry Feet”. I try hard to keep my feet dry for a day, just a day, but I am not winning!  Despite it using up time and energy trying to avoid marshy feet, I can’t resist the challenge. Once I’ve had a soaker though, I surrender but just for that day, tomorrow it’s on again!

Camping @ Shelter Rock Hut
Cloudy day climb to Rees Saddle
The trail to Dart Hut was steep, skinny and non-existent at times. Footsteps involved big drops and gains. But don’t fall off the trail as it is a long way down to a rushing river!! The look on hikers’ faces as we passed each other said it all!

Dart Hut- what can I say about this 32 bed bunkhouse with kitchen, windows, coal heated stove, flush toilets?? Except that it saved our sorry asses!!

So we are not ‘Hut Folk’ as we usually camp on the grounds near the huts. Freedom camping (wherever you please) usually isn’t allowed due to private property or there isn’t a flat, safe location. But sleeping amongst snoring strangers is not our preferred thing. However, a short few minutes after arriving at the hut, the rains began…it rained 7 heavy hours!! There were few people at the hut which allowed us to take a whole bunkroom to ourselves without interfering with those who had booked a spot. So lucky!! So crazy lucky!! We cozied up, slept dry, soundly and cherished the shelter and our good fortune!

Morning casts shadows on the way to Dart Glacier
Turbulent gray river flows with determination after the flooding rains.
Blue Glacial ice looks so clean
Yet down below the glacier the landscape appears more like an industrial wasteland! A landscape in the making.
Sun opens up on our retreat

Back at the trailhead we hitched a ride with a couple of young kiwis that had just summited Mt Earnslaw. What a feat! They gave us great conversation and a ride to Queenstown. The area is busy with tourists as this is Chinese New Year and they have come to NZ to celebrate. All accommodations and transportation are booked up. There is no place to dilly dally so we get back on trail from Arrowtown on the Motatapu Track, part of the Te Aroroa.

Walking through Macetown, an historic gold mining town during the 1860’s.
Overlooking the Arrow river

From Macetown there is a choice to make- do the high route or the low one. The latter involves multiple crossings of the Arrow river. We opted for the river route, but wondered why the handful of hikers’ expressions coming off that part of the route seemed sour.

We soon found the water to be colder than expected causing us to stump along between crossings, never regaining the feeling in our feet!!

There were 49 crossings and half a km straight walking in the river. A canoe trip without a canoe! I certainly lost the dry feet game that day.
Clear, clear water with current made you pay attention to not losing your balance.
We climbed out of the valley, up and over to Roses Hut.
Roses Saddle
Roses Hut looked like the Little House on the Prairie. We loved the porch and hung out there as we cooked. We were warned by the full house of TA hikers to watch out for bothersome possoms during the night!

The next morning we passed by Highland Hut and continued to Fern Burn Hut. There are 3 climbs in this section which are the steepest trails that we have done anywhere. At times it seemed ridiculous how steep they were!

Little Jobie is making his way down the sharp, narrow ridge track
At one point I was looking down from a narrow ridge trail only to see Jobie’s hat. He was directly below me, straight down below. It was steep as a staircase descending that slope!
View from Highland Hut!  These striking mountains makes you consider whether to keep going or not! Crazy trail!

We hiked out past Fern Burn Hut meeting lots of Germans, French, Kiwis, Canadians, Australians- such an international crowd. But I have to say that most of these southbound TA hikers want the end of the trail to come soon. They are burnt out.

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